
Noorkhooneh is a place to be with yourself
Interview with the founder of the first indigenous accommodation in Qaleh Bala village, Shahroud
The locals call her "Manir Khanom." She is friendly with everyone in the village, young and old, and is a pleasant conversationalist.
Although she is not from Semnan province and resides in Tehran, fate has tied her to Qaleh Bala. She has become so familiar with the locals that they now consider her one of their own, and she is a source of pride for the village.
She is the first person to bravely engage in cultural work in the village. By converting a house into the first indigenous accommodation in Qaleh Bala, she has paved the way for the village's tourism growth.
She named her house "Noorkhooneh" for two important reasons: first, this place was a maktab-khaneh (traditional school) in the past, and second, her own name is derived from "Nur" (light).
During the conversation, when she recalls the kindness of the locals and speaks of their good qualities, she becomes emotional and cries, as she puts it. Tybeh Khanom is quicker to cry than her. Tybeh Khanom is a villager and one of Manir Khanom's helpers in hosting guests at "Noorkhooneh."
The locals are very fond of her and say, "We host her guests, and she hosts us." They say that since Manir Khanom arrived, tourists have also started coming here, and they no longer wish to leave.
Manir Khanom considers Qaleh Bala a kind of nowhere, and she says that this place has its own special type of tourist and is a place for self-reflection. She considers travelers and tourists as guests and rarely uses the word "traveler."
Now, if you wish to be a guest of the warm-hearted people of Qaleh Bala or Noorkhooneh, travel to Shahroud. After traveling 140 kilometers southeast of Shahroud, you will reach the beautiful village of Qaleh Bala.
This village is located on the edge of the Dasht-e Kavir desert, 24 kilometers from Biarjomand, and indeed, Qaleh Bala is a castle higher than imagination.
§ Please introduce yourself?
I am Manir Taghdisi. I am originally from Khorasan but was born and live in Tehran. I am a retired employee of IRIB (Islamic Republic of Iran Broadcasting) and a film editor. I have edited films for IRIB and the cinema for many years.
§ How did your destiny become intertwined with Qaleh Bala?
I love traveling, village tours, and nature very much. Retirement provided an opportunity for me to travel more and participate in tourism and hotel management courses. However, after organizing a few tours, I realized my interest was more in hosting guests, and for this reason, I was looking to establish an indigenous accommodation space in villages.
Initially, I was looking to establish an accommodation space in Yazd, but my pursuit did not yield results for various reasons. About four years ago, one of my tourist friends introduced me to Qaleh Bala village. In the first encounter, the people were so welcoming that I wanted to buy a house in this village, and I chose "Noorkhooneh" as the accommodation space from the very beginning. The locals were very surprised at first because this house was dilapidated, and they didn't trust us much, but gradually they got involved, and this house was renovated with the cooperation of the villagers.
§ How did the locals come to trust you?
One of the prerequisites for working in this environment is establishing communication with the locals, and I made great efforts in this regard. About 9 months before seriously starting the work, I visited each household and established a connection with all of them. Even after four years, we are constantly visiting each other, and the locals feel a sense of closeness with me.
§ Have you faced any problems in doing this work?
Being in this village and working in this environment gave me the opportunity to be patient, and one must allow time to pass for many issues to be resolved. Although there were many problems at the beginning of the work, the passage of time resolved everything, and fortunately, I don't have any particular problems now.
It is interesting to know that my presence here has led to greater unity among the locals, and people who were estranged have reconnected. I love everyone and want friendship and connection to exist. My goal in coming to Qaleh Bala is not just trade and earning income; I have had and continue to have cultural concerns.
When I first came to Qaleh Bala, I asked a 10-year-old boy what was missing here, and he said, "People, human beings."
This point was very interesting to me, and I concluded that tourism, before bringing financial income, facilitates connection, social interaction, and coming and going.
· As the locals say, your presence has been very effective in the growth of tourism in Qaleh Bala. Tell us about other impacts of your presence in Qaleh Bala.
Previously, guests or travelers used to come to this village, but there was no specific indigenous accommodation for tourists like this. This accommodation was created for the first time as a special space for hosting tourists in this village, and this move led many locals to think about renovating and creating indigenous accommodations. As a result, two more houses have been converted into indigenous accommodations during this period.
The migration of locals, especially the children of villagers, to the city, and the return of locals who had settled in the city have also increased after my arrival and the boom in the village's tourism.
Here, hosting guests is done by the villagers themselves, and this conveys a good feeling to the locals, giving them the sense that they are hosting their own guests.
The villagers tell me, "We host your guests, and you host ours."
In my opinion, these interactions, both from the local people and the tourists, have played an important role in creating even greater unity among the locals. The change in people's perspective towards tourism activities is also an important achievement. When I come here after some time, they say, "Welcome" or "You've brightened things up," and these phrases give me energy.
Tybeh Khanom (the cousin of the house owner and companion of Ms. Taghdisi) joins the conversation: After Manir Khanom's arrival, the flow of travelers here has increased significantly, and many locals have also renovated their homes in a traditional style.
· What is the current state of tourism in the village?
There are many tourists here, especially during holidays and when the "Safar be Touran" or "Zagh Bor" festivals are held. Many tourists come to Qaleh Bala.
· Do you have foreign tourists as well?
Yes, for example, a recently an American couple were my guests, and the American woman was very satisfied with the local hospitality, especially the availability of a toilet in my house. The availability of a toilet is very important for foreign tourists, and fortunately, appropriate cultural awareness has been developed in the village in this regard.
· What does your family think of your profession?
I am single, and my family initially opposed my involvement in this activity. I even started this work secretly at first. However, after a year of starting the work and seeing the results, their opinion changed.
· Why was this place named Noorkhooneh?
Firstly, this house was a maktab-khaneh in the past, and the lady of the house used to teach the village women the Quran, so in a way, this place is intertwined with light. The second reason is that my own name is derived from Nur (light).
· Tell us about the attractions of your work.
The best part of my job, which I love, is interacting with people. I am happy and satisfied that I have connections with the people and locals of this village, and this is very valuable to me.
I am known here as "Manir Khanom," which is a sign of the friendly relationship the locals have with me. This type of tourism, which involves the hospitality of the villagers, gives both me and the locals a good feeling.
It is important that the locals are involved in tourism and their children are not forced to go to the city for work. Interestingly, even some villagers who live in the city have become eager to return to the village.
· You mentioned that you are a film editor. Did your initial profession also come in handy in this village?
Yes, from the beginning of this project, I have filmed all stages of the work and life with the locals and am currently editing this film. This documentary film also showcases all the ceremonies and rituals of the village.
· How long do you usually stay in the village, and how do you travel here?
I have a personal car, and sometimes I stay in the village for a month, 10 days, or perhaps two days. But I wish I could live here permanently. When I leave here, I miss the village, its people, and especially the Biarjomand-Qaleh Bala road very much.
· When is the best time to travel to the village?
From March to early June and in autumn. During these times, one can visit all parts of the village in pleasant weather.
· Do you advertise to attract tourists?
Due to my acquaintance with tour guides, Noorkhooneh is known among nature lovers, and I don't like to advertise too much because this place requires its own specific type of tourist.
· Does this profession also bring economic benefits to this village?
Yes, one can achieve a good income here, but one must always innovate in the work; people need variety. This activity generates income not only for me but also for many villagers, so much so that for every guest I host, seven to eight villagers are involved.
· Final word.
In the four years I have been here, I have learned a lot. Although it is a very good job, my activity in Qaleh Bala is not just professional. Living with these people is more important to me, and I am grateful to each and every one of the warm-hearted locals of Qaleh Bala for their kindness and cooperation.
Interview by: Samaneh Soltanipour